The Hermès Kelly Bag—Fit for a Princess
When Grace Kelly appeared in LIFE magazine in 1956 clutching a black Hermès bag with white-gloved hands to hide her pregnancy, an icon was born. Though the bag has been around since 1936, the movie-star-turned-Princess Grace of Monaco changed this bag's trajectory forever as Hermès quickly renamed it in her honor.
Designed by Robert Dumas (the son-in-law of Emile Hermès), the bag provides collectors a stylish day-to-night purse featuring a trapezoid shape, triangular gussets, straps and a distinctive cutout flap. The House also includes studs on the bottom so the wearer can set it down without scuffing the leather, plus a lock and key secures its straps when closed.
Though the design has only changed slightly over the years, it has since inspired a long line of other luxury leather goods, including belts, wallets, watches, clutches, pochettes and backpacks. Even decades later, fashion movers and shakers worldwide covet this piece of timeless elegance.
The Wide World of Hermès Kelly Bags
The Hermès Kelly bag's signature elements include the triangular shape, the attachable shoulder strap, the lock and key and the cutout flap. From that, there are a remarkable number of options that can vary with each bag. The Kelly bag comes in various sizes, from the large iteration to the miniature Kelly, which is just big enough for your wallet and smartphone.
In addition to size, Kelly bags vary in style, as seen with the Sellier and the Retourne. Sellier bags feature the exquisite Hermès saddle stitch on the outside edges, providing a strong architectural structure that enhances the bag’s triangular shape. In contrast, the Retourne is slouchier, with the stitching done on the edges' inside, giving a piping effect. You might say the Sellier is formal and sleek, while the Retourne is more casual and relaxed.
Materials and Craftsmanship of Hermès Kelly Bag
Hermès started as a saddlery in the 19th century, crafting harnesses for the wealthy elite. The House evolved into one of the premier French fashion houses, keeping a tight focus on quality and craftsmanship, which remains the luxury brand's hallmark.
Hermès employs hundreds of artisans in its ateliers, where a single individual can spend 15 to 20 hours producing one bag. Special order bags with specific colors, leathers, hardware and stitching can take years to finish. Once done, the artisan stamps these custom pieces with a gold horseshoe next to the Hermès stamp inside the bag, usually imprinting their signature symbol by the date letter indicating who made it.
Leather options range from goatskin and ostrich to calfskin, lizard and crocodile, and each of these comes in various finishes (matte, shiny, natural grain, processed grain). However, not every leather is available each season.
The same goes for colors. Each season, the House releases a new color palette. Options span the rainbow, with shades of pink, red, orange, yellow, green, purple and blue. Classic black is always a good choice for a Hermès bag, but so are neutral whites and browns, from vanilla and camel to Bordeaux and brick. Each leather behaves differently when dyed, so the color variations within the existing options are seemingly endless.
The most celebrated detail of a Hermès bag is the stitching. Artisans execute the perfect 45-degree saddle stitch by hand, the same way back in the 18th century. Stitching is used as a design element too, sometimes it’s a contrasting color, and sometimes it’s the same color as the leather.
When it comes to hardware, Hermès uses metals that come in various tones that do not tarnish. Gold-plated and palladium are the most common, with more precious options like rose gold, 24K gold-plated, ruthenium and even diamond-encrusted showing up on rarer bags.
The Hermès Kelly Bag’s Value and Collectibility
Hermès bags, specifically the Kelly bags, are universally covetable handbags, making them extremely valuable on the secondary market. Even though these hand-produced works of art come with high price tags, collectors won’t have a problem finding a Kelly that matches their personal style. In early 2021, pre-loved Kelly 35 cm bags fetch, on average, more than $6,000. However, smaller Kelly bags, like the 28 iteration, are usually more expensive. For example, pre-owned versions typically sell for about $11,000.