I'm the same age as the author and I lived a similar lifestyle in the 1970's - 1980's - in different space, but comparable events - surfing - finding perfect waves - love before marriage and creative documentary writing and outdoor adventures galore -- BUT William Finnegan is capable of describing his life's events in a unique detail with the perfect straight forward language of a surfer and scholar.. He includes an understanding of current events mixed into his travels that leads any reader (surfer or not) to the next sentence, the next incident with several connections among people who have become household names of fame. The other characters who have certain talents in his world of surfing and lifestyle are deep insightful portraits worthy for us to know.. I am both listening to the Author read his book and also reading the words of the printed page back and forth and each has its own addictive feelings.. I highly recommend the audio CDs - even if you already read the book - there is much in the voice and the expressions that keep you riveted to the story and language of this award winning work.. Rick SawyerRead full review
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
Won the Pulitzer Prize and had great reviews. An unusual story that caught me immediately and continued through the whole book. I was familiar with some of the physical locations and the feel of his various time periods as I am little older and have lived several places.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
This is an awesome tale written in such a manner that everyone can relate to even if you don't surf! But If you do surf or love the beaches for all her glory, man, it's a great read....
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
A good look at a surfing lifestyle few people experience.Finnegan does a very good job in exposing the pull and and mystery of his life in search of waves and his meaning to life.
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: Pre-owned
Verified purchase: Yes | Condition: New
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Best Selling in Books
Current slide {CURRENT_SLIDE} of {TOTAL_SLIDES}- Save on Books